Stepping into a tea house tucked away in a small alley in Hanoi owned by 44-year-old tea artisan Dao Duc Hieu, I was welcomed by the soothing aroma of various teas and the warmth of wooden tables and chairs. The soft folk music and gentle dim lighting created a tranquil atmosphere, perfect for savoring tea. Around the room, display cases showcased an array of products made from Shan Tuyet tea from Suoi Giang commune in Yen Bai province—a testament to Hieu’s passion and dedication to this treasured tea. Taking a sip of tea, Hieu showed me where Vietnam is in the world map of tea.
“This is the world map of tea. The map was hand-drawn by the British more than 300 years ago. There are three colors. Yellow, represents "No tea countries," indicating regions in the world where there isn’t any tea at all. Orange, also labeled "No tea countries," represents lowland or midland tea regions. The dark brown color signifies ancient tea trees. The British identified regions like Vietnam, parts of southern China, Taiwan, and Brazil as areas with ancient tea trees, often found in forests.”
 Dao Duc Hieu stands under an ancient Shan Tuyet tea tree in Suoi Giang (Photo: Dao Duc Hieu) |
Suoi Giang is located at an altitude of nearly 1,400 meters above the sea level with fresh and cool climate year-round. This region grows Shan Tuyet tea trees that are hundreds of years old, the oldest is about 400 years old, known locally as “the first tea tree”.
Shan Tuyet tea is a specialty tea of Vietnam, known for its large, grayish-white buds, with a fine, white, silky fuzz covering the underside of the leaves, which is why it is called "snow tea."
“The Shan Tuyet tea trees are a variety of Camellia sinensis. This tea variety is called Shan Tuyet, which is also internationally referred to as "snow shan." However, "Shan Tuyet" here refers to the ancient trees in Suoi Giang, Hoang Su Phi, or Tay Con Linh, where these tea trees are found. Shan Tuyet is different from other tea varieties because it is a unique type, and it is ranked number one among all tea types worldwide,” Hieu explained.
 The Shan Tuyet tea trees hold significant cultural and spiritual importance for the Mong people (Photo: Dao Duc Hieu). |
The Mong people in Suoi Giang pass down a legendary story about the origin of the Shan tea trees in this land. The story goes that, long ago, in a pristine land shrouded in mist year-round, a fairy, while wandering through the area, accidentally planted a seed. Not long after, the seed sprouted and grew into lush trees, their branches spreading wide, with buds covered in white dew like snow and leaves dark green, as large as a palm.
In Suoi Giang’s memorial book, a tea specialist from the former Soviet Union – Academician K.M. Djemmukhatze of the Baku Institute of Biochemistry –wrote: “I have traveled through 120 countries that have tea production, but I have never seen tea trees as old as those in Suoi Giang. Are they the ancestors of all tea trees? A bowl of green tea here combines the 18 bitter tastes of all the other teas in the world”.
Hieu further elaborated: “Suoi Giang tea benefits from distinctive factors essential for premium tea cultivation: soil, climate, temperature, air quality, and farming habits.”
 Mong women harvest Shan Tuyet tea leaves on the mountainside (Photo: Dao Duc Hieu) |
Shan Tuyet tea leaves are picked three times a year, with the final harvest usually taking place between August and September on the lunar calendar. The Shan Tuyet tea buds are harvested and processed with the expertise of the Mong people. Harvesting often requires climbing high branches of the ancient tea trees. At an altitude of 1,400 meters above sea level, winters often lack sunlight, and even on summer mornings, the buds are shrouded in mist, making picking them a frosty challenge. Hieu said Mong people have certain taboos and customs in tea cultivation.
“For instance, men do not pick tea; it is the women who are responsible for harvesting. For special kinds of tea, harvesting is done only on moonlit nights. A single harvest typically lasts just three days, on the 14th, 15th, and 16th of the lunar month when the tea is available. This unique practice has a profound significance. Normally, on the mountain peaks, dense fog obscures visibility, and people standing just 10 to 15 meters apart cannot see each other. Yet, the moon, 65,000 kilometers away from the earth and the tea trees, illuminates the tea fields so clearly that the tea can "see" the moon, and the moon can "see" the tea. This suggests an extraordinary energy field during the moonlit nights, clearing away the fog and making everything visible. The tea harvested under the moonlight is also believed to have exceptional qualities,” said Hieu.
The Mong people still preserve a unique traditional tea-making secret: fresh tea is chopped into small pieces, repeatedly roasted, then stuffed into bamboo tubes, grilled over a fire, and stored for gradual use. According to traditional method, Mong people primarily make green tea.
 Suoi Giang Shan Tuyet tea varieties are honored to be chosen as gifts for heads of state. |
Today, with advancements in techniques, technology, and the ingenuity of tea lovers and experts, Suoi Giang Shan Tuyet tea has evolved into a diverse range of products, each crafted through unique harvesting and processing methods.
“From a single ancient tree, it is possible to produce four types of tea: Yellow Tea, Black Tea, White Tea, and Green Tea. First, regarding the harvesting process: for White Tea, only a single bud is picked; for Green Tea, one bud and two young leaves are picked; for Yellow Tea, one bud and two leaves are picked, with one mature leaf; and for Black Tea, one bud and two fully mature leaves are harvested.”
Hieu told us about processing steps.
“Green Tea is immediately roasted after being harvested; Yellow Tea is left to wither before being roasted; Black Tea is withered, then rolled, fermented, and dried, without being roasted; and White Tea is only naturally fermented, without any roasting or rolling.”
 (Photo: Dao Duc Hieu) |
Enjoying a perfect cup of Shan Tuyet tea requires more than just a good selection of leaves. There are five key elements to brewing a delicious pot of this renowned tea: water, tea, brewing method, teapot, and tea companions. Among these, water is considered the most crucial, according to Hieu.
“The best water for tea comes from mountain streams, as it combines all three essential factors: heaven, earth, and human (thiên, địa, nhân), since it requires someone to fetch it. The second factor is tea selection. Diệp trà (green tea) is ideal for early mornings, as it refreshes and energizes the body to start the day. Hoàng trà (yellow tea) is beneficial for bones and joints, making it an excellent choice for midday consumption, especially after lunch. Hồng trà (red or black tea) is perfect for the evening. Contrary to popular belief, drinking this type of tea in the afternoon or evening promotes better sleep.”
Driven by a deep passion for tea and following his family tradition of tea cultivation and production, Dao Duc Hieu has played a key role in transforming and enhancing the value of Shan Tuyet tea, while also improving the livelihoods of the people in the region. In the next segment of the show, we will dive into Dao Duc Hieu's journey to promote the rich values of Shan Tuyet tea.
 An ancient Shan Tuyet tea tree (Photo: Dao Duc Hieu) |
Five years ago, the hidden value of Suoi Giang mountain in Yen Bai province—one of the six cradles of tea in the world, with thousands of ancient tea trees—had yet to be “awakened.” Despite inheriting this precious natural resource, thousands of ethnic Mong families in the area still lived in poverty.
Hieu’s love for Suoi Giang tea was passed down from his family, which has had a tea-making tradition for many years. After studying tea in 30 countries, spending over 15 years researching, and traveling to tea regions across Vietnam, Hieu settled down in Suoi Giang. This misty mountain peak became the starting point for Hieu to realize his ambition to bring Vietnamese tea to the world.
“After visiting 30 countries, I realized that nations with tea, especially ancient tea trees, have their own unique and distinctive approach. Among the regions of ancient tea cultivation in Vietnam, Suoi Giang stood out as the best place to fulfill my mission of transforming Vietnamese tea,” said Hieu.
 Dao Duc Hieu guides the local Mong people in creating new products from Shan Tuyet tea trees (Photo: Dao Duc Hieu) |
Under Hieu’s guidance, the Mong people have learned how to produce a variety of profitable tea products. Mr. Vang Song Mang of Suoi Giang commune, Van Chan district, Yen Bai province, said: “Suoi Giang tea has always had a unique taste, but we didn’t know how to turn it into a premium product. After listening to Hieu’s advice, my family and other local people have changed our mindset. Now we carefully select each leaf and bud. A single tea tree can now yield two or three different products."
In September 2019, Dao Duc Hieu established the Suoi Giang Tea Cultural Space with the aim of exports, tourism development, economic growth, and job creation for the local Mong community. Hieu said: “They have learned to serve visitors, decorate their homes, and plant more flowers—these are the results of setting up this cultural space as a model for the community. It has elevated the value of our tea. What were once ordinary products have now become gifts for central authorities, provincial leaders, and tourists visiting Suoi Giang.”
The Tea Cultural Space has attracted many tourists to Suoi Giang. Hieu established a free evening class in Mới village to teach local children tea preparation techniques, life skills, and English.
Ms. Nguyen Ngoc Diep, the co-founder of the class, said: “The class makes no distinction between teachers and students. It’s a space that connects the children of Suoi Giang with friends from the city.”
Every weekend, a small room atop the misty mountains in the ancient tea region of Suoi Giang comes alive with the sounds of students practicing English. They also learn computer skills, life skills, tea preparation, tea preservation, business practices, and the preservation and development of Mong culture and arts.
 Giang House model in Suoi Giang designed by Dao Duc Hieu. |
Hieu and his friends are building something called “Nahi Village” or “Happy Village”. Happy Village is not very large. It began with the class and the message “Give a part of what you have.”
In 2021 Hieu encouraged neighboring households to break down fences and launch a new tourism product called "Enna-Tea Village-Camping-Food." Here, visitors can camp among tea trees that are 200-300 years old.
Thanks to Dao Duc Hieu, the Suoi Giang tea region in Yen Bai has awakened to its potential and artisan Hieu has been instrumental in raising Shan Tuyet tea to an elevated status.