Soai So Pagoda (Photo: Ngoc Anh)
Before 1975, Soai So Pagoda was located at the foot of Co To Mountain, also known as Phung Hoang Son. Venerable Chau Ty, abbot of the pagoda and Vice President of the Patronage Council of the Vietnam Buddhist Sangha, explained how it was rebuilt like it is today: “Soai So Pagoda was rebuilt in 1980. Before that time, the war and bombings made it unsafe, so it had been relocated to Prey Veng Pagoda in the former Tri Ton district. Since the original pagoda to the present one, there have been nine abbots in total. For Khmer Theravada Buddhism, the main hall is extremely important. It’s where monks receive ordination, practice, and conduct rituals. The complex includes monks’ quarters, a refectory, the main hall, a multipurpose communal hall, and two stupas for keeping the remains of the deceased.”
The main hall stands out as a representative example of Khmer architectural and decorative art. Its length is twice its width. Its height equals its length with the roof and the pagoda’s frame being proportioned equally. A corridor encircles the hall.
Soai So Pagoda features numerous Buddha statues and a multi-tiered curved roof with distinctive religious decorations. It keeps a collection of palm-leaf scriptures, recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage for being a rare form of ancient Buddhist manuscripts.
A service at Soai So Pagoda (Photo: Ngoc Anh)
Kim Som Ry Thi, an interpreter and assistant to Venerable Chau Ty, said: “Soai So Pagoda embodies the architecture and culture of the Khmer people and Theravada Buddhism. It is a well-known pagoda within the Khmer community, partly because its abbot holds a high religious position. The pagoda’s architecture is more beautiful than many others and successfully preserves Khmer cultural characteristics.”
Within the pagoda grounds grows a sala tree, a symbol of enlightenment, impermanence, and liberation. Nearby stands a nativity scene. When visiting Khmer Theravada pagodas, worshippers offer incense, flowers, and fruits, as well as meat-free dishes like candy, sticky rice, and sweet soups.
Chau Rinh, a resident of An Giang province, said: “When going to the pagoda, we pray for good health, a prosperous and happy life, and bountiful harvests. We believe in the Buddha and strive to live good lives in accordance with moral teachings. We are proud to have Soai So Pagoda, a beautiful pagoda with a talented abbot who is also a master artisan of palm-leaf scripture carving.”
Each year, the pagoda hosts many traditional festivals, including Chol Chnam Thmay – the traditional Khmer New Year, Ok Om Bok – the Moon Worship Festival, and Sen Dolta – the ancestors’ commemoration ceremony. Like other Khmer pagodas, Soai So also offers free Khmer-language courses for local children during the summer break. It is one of the first Khmer pagodas in the Seven Mountains region of An Giang province to be recognized as a cultural heritage site.