Red Dao women in Tien Nguyen commune uphold the traditional embroidery craft. (Photo: baotuyenquang.com.vn)

For the Red Dao, the coming-of-age ceremony not only marks a man’s maturity, but also serves as a “passport” for his recognition in the community and the spiritual world. During this important ritual, the embroidered brocade costume serves as a cultural symbol.

A ceremonial outfit typically includes a long blouse, pants, a headscarf, a belt, and decorative embroidered panels. The dominant colour is red, which symbolizes fire, combined with black, white, and yellow – the colors of the earth, sky, and humanity.

Participants wear traditional costume at the coming-of-age ceremony. (Photo: Trieu Bien/ VOV-Northeast Region)

On indigo-dyed fabric, hand-embroidered designs such as squares, crosses, zigzags, pine trees, and stars are intricately stitched. Each motif carries spiritual meaning. For example, the square represents the earth, where human beings are born and grow, while zigzag lines symbolise mountains and forests, the natural habitat of the Dao people. Along the blouse are embroidered lines resembling pathways connecting the human world with that of the ancestors. Beyond visual artistry, these ceremonial embroideries convey blessings and expectations for the young men: good health, prosperity, moral living, and respect for the elders.

All ceremonial clothes are hand-made by Red Dao women. (Photo: Trieu Bien/ VOV-Northeast Region)

Dao woman Trieu Mui Moi of Tuyen Quang province, said: “There are many taboos that embroiderers must observe when making ceremonial costumes. For instance, families in mourning or women during certain periods are not allowed to take part. Men’s ceremonial clothing consists of three layers, with the outer layer densely embroidered. Accessories include headscarves and leg wraps, all featuring intricate embroidered patterns.”

Red Dao ceremonial costumes are neither ready-to-wear nor available at markets. Every stitch is crafted by the women in the family, often prepared months or even a year before the ceremony. Usually after the harvest and some days before the Lunar New Year, the women gather by the wood-fires to embroider clothes for the coming-of-age men.

Each ceremonial brocade outfit tells a story of the group’s origins, beliefs, and craftsmanship, as well as the patience of Red Dao women. Trieu Mui Mii said: “After the coming-of-age ritual, the man must wear the ceremonial costume continuously for seven days without removing it. Afterwards, he can wear them on festive occasions.”

The coming-of-age rituals are performed solemly. (Photo: Trieu Bien/ VOV-Northeast Region)

In modern life, the craft of embroidering ceremonial brocade costumes faces numerous challenges. Industrial fabrics and ready-made clothing are becoming increasingly common, while younger people have less time to patiently tailor their clothes.

However, in many localities in Tuyen Quang province, the traditions are preserved by elderly artisans with a strong awareness of the importance of cultural conservation. Many villages have established embroidery groups and women’s clubs to pass on skills to younger people.

Trieu Mui Sai, a senior embroidery artisan in Tuyen Quang, said: “Embroidery for ceremonial costumes is the soul of Dao culture. We hope to have more training and support programs so that the craft can be linked with tourism development and help improve local incomes.”

In recent years, Red Dao hand-embroidered products, including costumes for the coming-of-age ritual, have been introduced at cultural festivals and community events, particularly during spring activities.