The cows, the strongest selected for the competition, start off slowly in pairs before suddenly picking up speed, charging forward, and sending water and mud flying up into the air. People lining both sides of the track cheer them on.
Long before the race day, strong cows are carefully cared for and trained. They have to get used to the muddy track and learn to run in pairs. Their handlers need to understand each cow’s temperament and know when to ease off to conserve energy or urge them to pick up speed.
For the participants, winning and losing certainly matters, but the joy of taking part in the festival is enough. Dao Van Cat from An Cu commune said: “I take part for the fun. Winning a prize would be great, but ours are calves and not as big as some of the others. I’m happy to have a pair of cows competing.”
The festival is a place for cow owners to share tips on raising and training their cattle, and for the fans to meet and socialize after weeks of hard work. Tu Van Tan of Tinh Bien ward said: “This year, the festival seems better organised than in previous years. I’m really excited. I’d heard about it and was very eager to see it for myself.”
Cow racing in the Bay Nui region grew out of the agricultural life of the Khmer people. Cows have long been a part of rice field farming. At some point, races began to be held annually after the harvest as a community cultural and sporting event, eventually becoming one of the most important festivals of the Khmer people in southern Vietnam.
The unconventional racecourse – across muddy, slippery rice fields – creates quite a challenge for the handlers, who must keep their balance while guiding two cows running in sync. A momentary loss of control can change the race in an instant.
Many people travel hundreds of kilometers to An Giang to watch the spectacle of mud, water, and cows. Pham Manh Tuan from Ho Chi Minh City said: “This year, a photography contest is being held. Many photographers have come here looking to capture the perfect moment of action.”
Bay Nui’s cow racing festival has been held for 12 consecutive years at Ro pagoda, continuing a long Khmer tradition which has lately become a strong tourist draw for An Giang province.
